Sticky door lock post in cool weather -- 1997 626 LX

Mazda 626 LX 1997 (with ~20,000 miles) with the stock security system,
and in cool weather when I hit the button on the remote, all my doors
unlock except the driver's door. In warm weather it works OK. The cooler
it gets the more iffy it gets until like now (days 50 and below, that's
almost as cold as it gets here), the vertical lock post just doesn't get
up high enough (unless I pull on it!) so I can open the door. I can open
the door part way (1/2 an inch), but something catches and I can't get
the door open without pulling up on the vertical thing with my thumb and
forefinger that last 1/8 to 1/4 inch or so. I find myself having to open
the left rear door and reach around and pull the thing up, and then the
door will open. I tried spraying some graphite around that vertical lock
post, but it obviously didn't solve the problem. Should I try that
again, spray some type of fluid in there? Or this even fixable with a
lubricant? I don't know exactly what the issue is, of course. I just
assumed that something needed lubrication, but maybe it isn't that
simple. I figure there must be a solenoid that gets a jolt of current
and suddenly pulls a steel rod to either push up that lock post or pull
it back down. It goes down all the way no problem, going up in cool
weather it just doesn't make it. Will I have to take off the door panel?

[ I guess a workaround would be to use the key until I fix this. ]

Thanks for clues, help, etc.!

Dan

I believe that you will end up taking the door panel off and finding out
what is causing the problem.

It may be nothing more that stiff lubricant, or something else, such as
binding or wear at a key point.
It's even possible that a poor connection related to the solenoid is the
cause.
On a NB, there is an electronic module that can cause similar problems,
although I've never encountered that specific cause.

"Dan Musicant" <man@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:e3u3l45bg7so2d3hhrj9t4kmdimvpt8m20@4ax.com...
> Mazda 626 LX 1997 (with ~20,000 miles) with the stock security system,
> and in cool weather when I hit the button on the remote, all my doors
> unlock except the driver's door. In warm weather it works OK. The cooler
> it gets the more iffy it gets until like now (days 50 and below, that's
> almost as cold as it gets here), the vertical lock post just doesn't get
> up high enough (unless I pull on it!) so I can open the door. I can open
> the door part way (1/2 an inch), but something catches and I can't get
> the door open without pulling up on the vertical thing with my thumb and
> forefinger that last 1/8 to 1/4 inch or so. I find myself having to open
> the left rear door and reach around and pull the thing up, and then the
> door will open. I tried spraying some graphite around that vertical lock
> post, but it obviously didn't solve the problem. Should I try that
> again, spray some type of fluid in there? Or this even fixable with a
> lubricant? I don't know exactly what the issue is, of course. I just
> assumed that something needed lubrication, but maybe it isn't that
> simple. I figure there must be a solenoid that gets a jolt of current
> and suddenly pulls a steel rod to either push up that lock post or pull
> it back down. It goes down all the way no problem, going up in cool
> weather it just doesn't make it. Will I have to take off the door panel?
>
> [ I guess a workaround would be to use the key until I fix this. ]
>
> Thanks for clues, help, etc.!
>
> Dan

On Wed, 24 Dec 2008 04:07:33 -0500, "Chuck" <cdknospam@cox.net> wrote:

:I believe that you will end up taking the door panel off and finding out
:what is causing the problem.
:
:It may be nothing more that stiff lubricant, or something else, such as
:binding or wear at a key point.
:It's even possible that a poor connection related to the solenoid is the
:cause.
:On a NB, there is an electronic module that can cause similar problems,
:although I've never encountered that specific cause.

Thanks, "on a NB" you mean some kind of bulletin from Mazda, a service
heads-up? Is it pretty straight forward taking off the door panel? I
have the Chilton's for my car.

Dan

:
:"Dan Musicant" <man@privacy.net> wrote in message
:news:e3u3l45bg7so2d3hhrj9t4kmdimvpt8m20@4ax.com.. .
:> Mazda 626 LX 1997 (with ~20,000 miles) with the stock security system,
:> and in cool weather when I hit the button on the remote, all my doors
:> unlock except the driver's door. In warm weather it works OK. The cooler
:> it gets the more iffy it gets until like now (days 50 and below, that's
:> almost as cold as it gets here), the vertical lock post just doesn't get
:> up high enough (unless I pull on it!) so I can open the door. I can open
:> the door part way (1/2 an inch), but something catches and I can't get
:> the door open without pulling up on the vertical thing with my thumb and
:> forefinger that last 1/8 to 1/4 inch or so. I find myself having to open
:> the left rear door and reach around and pull the thing up, and then the
:> door will open. I tried spraying some graphite around that vertical lock
:> post, but it obviously didn't solve the problem. Should I try that
:> again, spray some type of fluid in there? Or this even fixable with a
:> lubricant? I don't know exactly what the issue is, of course. I just
:> assumed that something needed lubrication, but maybe it isn't that
:> simple. I figure there must be a solenoid that gets a jolt of current
:> and suddenly pulls a steel rod to either push up that lock post or pull
:> it back down. It goes down all the way no problem, going up in cool
:> weather it just doesn't make it. Will I have to take off the door panel?
:>
:> [ I guess a workaround would be to use the key until I fix this. ]
:>
:> Thanks for clues, help, etc.!
:>
:> Dan
:

In article <bnu4l4t5pgil657bkm7m236ab3hsif63o5@4ax.com>, wrote:

> Thanks, "on a NB" you mean some kind of bulletin from Mazda, a service
> heads-up? Is it pretty straight forward taking off the door panel? I
> have the Chilton's for my car.

NB: an abbreviation for nota bene, a Latin expression meaning "note
well" (although frequently Anglicized to something more like "by the
way").

Cheers!

Mudge

--
"And if California slides into the ocean like the mystics and
statistics say it will, I predict this hotel will be standing
until I pay my bill."

Remember this is a Miata group.

The reference is to a electronic module on an NB (09-05) Miata. This may or
may not apply to your 97 626. (I don't recall.) (There was a similar
module in an 89 MPV van that we used to own, so finding such a module would
not be unusual.) Since 3 of four solenoids work, the module is likely OK,
and it may be that the connections to the slow solenoid are not too good, or
there is mechanical binding. An uncommon but possible problem (usually seen
on aftermarket solenoids) has to do with shorted turns in the solenoid
winding. These can be caused by binding and (on aftermarket systems),
frequently holding down the lock or unlock buttons.

What does the module do? --It provides a pulse to the solenoids, and on some
systems reverses the polarity of the pulse to provide solenoid lock/unlock
direction.

When you have the door panel off, the first thing to look at is the
mechanism that connects the solenoid to the lock "button and the rest of the
lock linkage. Operate it by hand, and see if you can find any obvious
problems. The solenoid can have an internal bind that occurs when moving in
one direction, and not the other.

Does the solenoid move as rapidly as the other door solenoids? (I doubt it!)
Is anything binding the linkage?
Does the solenoid move more rapidly during the lock mode?
Does the solenoid have two or three wires?

"Dan Musicant" <man@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:bnu4l4t5pgil657bkm7m236ab3hsif63o5@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 24 Dec 2008 04:07:33 -0500, "Chuck" <cdknospam@cox.net> wrote:
>
> :I believe that you will end up taking the door panel off and finding out
> :what is causing the problem.
> :
> :It may be nothing more that stiff lubricant, or something else, such as
> :binding or wear at a key point.
> :It's even possible that a poor connection related to the solenoid is the
> :cause.
> :On a NB, there is an electronic module that can cause similar problems,
> :although I've never encountered that specific cause.
>
> Thanks, "on a NB" you mean some kind of bulletin from Mazda, a service
> heads-up? Is it pretty straight forward taking off the door panel? I
> have the Chilton's for my car.
>
> Dan
>
> :
> :"Dan Musicant" <man@privacy.net> wrote in message
> :news:e3u3l45bg7so2d3hhrj9t4kmdimvpt8m20@4ax.com.. .
> :> Mazda 626 LX 1997 (with ~20,000 miles) with the stock security system,
> :> and in cool weather when I hit the button on the remote, all my doors
> :> unlock except the driver's door. In warm weather it works OK. The
> cooler
> :> it gets the more iffy it gets until like now (days 50 and below, that's
> :> almost as cold as it gets here), the vertical lock post just doesn't
> get
> :> up high enough (unless I pull on it!) so I can open the door. I can
> open
> :> the door part way (1/2 an inch), but something catches and I can't get
> :> the door open without pulling up on the vertical thing with my thumb
> and
> :> forefinger that last 1/8 to 1/4 inch or so. I find myself having to
> open
> :> the left rear door and reach around and pull the thing up, and then the
> :> door will open. I tried spraying some graphite around that vertical
> lock
> :> post, but it obviously didn't solve the problem. Should I try that
> :> again, spray some type of fluid in there? Or this even fixable with a
> :> lubricant? I don't know exactly what the issue is, of course. I just
> :> assumed that something needed lubrication, but maybe it isn't that
> :> simple. I figure there must be a solenoid that gets a jolt of current
> :> and suddenly pulls a steel rod to either push up that lock post or pull
> :> it back down. It goes down all the way no problem, going up in cool
> :> weather it just doesn't make it. Will I have to take off the door
> panel?
> :>
> :> [ I guess a workaround would be to use the key until I fix this. ]
> :>
> :> Thanks for clues, help, etc.!
> :>
> :> Dan
> :
>

On Wed, 24 Dec 2008 14:21:52 -0500, "Chuck" <cdknospam@cox.net> wrote:

:Remember this is a Miata group.

I know. I found a Mazda group (a few years ago, haven't looked lately)
but there appears to be no traffic on it at all now (free.autos.mazda).
I've posted here a time or two before with good results so I tried here
instead.

:
:The reference is to a electronic module on an NB (09-05) Miata. This may or
:may not apply to your 97 626. (I don't recall.) (There was a similar
:module in an 89 MPV van that we used to own, so finding such a module would
:not be unusual.) Since 3 of four solenoids work, the module is likely OK,
:and it may be that the connections to the slow solenoid are not too good, or
:there is mechanical binding. An uncommon but possible problem (usually seen
n aftermarket solenoids) has to do with shorted turns in the solenoid
:winding. These can be caused by binding and (on aftermarket systems),
:frequently holding down the lock or unlock buttons.

I have a feeling that the problem isn't with the solenoid, but is
mechanical. I'll explain. I tried today with graphite again, no
improvement. I determined that sometimes the post gets up high enough so
that the door will open 1/2 inch and in that event (leaving the door
open that 1/2 inch) if I use the remote to lock/unlock the car, the door
comes open with a 2nd pull of the handle. Every time. Sometimes the post
doesn't get up high enough so that the door will open even that 1st 1/2
inch. But the interesting thing is that if the post isn't fully up
(having pulled it up) pulling on the outside handle often lowers the
post. For some reason the post won't stay up unless I pull it all the
way up.

I'm thinking that the fact that this has happened on the driver's side
door only is because there's a different mechanism involved in that door
lock system. That particular post triggers the 3 others. Pull it up and
the other 3 go up automatically. Push it down and the other three
automatically go down. The other 3 extend obviously somewhat higher than
the driver side post even at maximum extension.

The key unfailingly opens the door, and it's entirely mechanical.
There's appears to be a direct linkage between the key turn and the post
height.

It's appearing more and more to me that I'll have to remove that panel.
My Chilton's has some pictures but it's not specific to the 626,
although it does include the 626 in the handful of vehicles it covers. I
suppose I can manage to get the panel off. I'm not at all sure that I'll
be able to determine the problem once I get in there, however.

:
:What does the module do? --It provides a pulse to the solenoids, and on some
:systems reverses the polarity of the pulse to provide solenoid lock/unlock
:direction.

I'd assumed a reverse of polarity, but I gather based on your statement
that there are other possible systems.
:
:When you have the door panel off, the first thing to look at is the
:mechanism that connects the solenoid to the lock "button and the rest of the
:lock linkage. Operate it by hand, and see if you can find any obvious
roblems. The solenoid can have an internal bind that occurs when moving in
ne direction, and not the other.

Thanks.
:
oes the solenoid move as rapidly as the other door solenoids? (I doubt it!)
Seems to, but it doesn't move as far, as noted.

:Is anything binding the linkage?
Won't know until I get in there.

oes the solenoid move more rapidly during the lock mode?
Not apparently, but it does go entirely to the bottom every time.

oes the solenoid have two or three wires?
Won't know until I get in there.

Dan

The reason for the two or three wire question--
Some solenoids have a center tapped winding, or two windings tied together.
The solenoid may stop in a center position, or at either end.

The key function of the module is really to provide a pulse. It's possible
to design a system that uses momentary contacts or limit type switches to do
the same thing. The electronic module is less expensive and easier to
replace (err maintain)

"Dan Musicant" <man@privacy.net> wrote in message
newstd5l495d4083hefokurdqme8gtlptq44f@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 24 Dec 2008 14:21:52 -0500, "Chuck" <cdknospam@cox.net> wrote:
>
> :Remember this is a Miata group.
>
> I know. I found a Mazda group (a few years ago, haven't looked lately)
> but there appears to be no traffic on it at all now (free.autos.mazda).
> I've posted here a time or two before with good results so I tried here
> instead.
>
> :
> :The reference is to a electronic module on an NB (09-05) Miata. This may
> or
> :may not apply to your 97 626. (I don't recall.) (There was a similar
> :module in an 89 MPV van that we used to own, so finding such a module
> would
> :not be unusual.) Since 3 of four solenoids work, the module is likely
> OK,
> :and it may be that the connections to the slow solenoid are not too good,
> or
> :there is mechanical binding. An uncommon but possible problem (usually
> seen
> n aftermarket solenoids) has to do with shorted turns in the solenoid
> :winding. These can be caused by binding and (on aftermarket systems),
> :frequently holding down the lock or unlock buttons.
>
> I have a feeling that the problem isn't with the solenoid, but is
> mechanical. I'll explain. I tried today with graphite again, no
> improvement. I determined that sometimes the post gets up high enough so
> that the door will open 1/2 inch and in that event (leaving the door
> open that 1/2 inch) if I use the remote to lock/unlock the car, the door
> comes open with a 2nd pull of the handle. Every time. Sometimes the post
> doesn't get up high enough so that the door will open even that 1st 1/2
> inch. But the interesting thing is that if the post isn't fully up
> (having pulled it up) pulling on the outside handle often lowers the
> post. For some reason the post won't stay up unless I pull it all the
> way up.
>
> I'm thinking that the fact that this has happened on the driver's side
> door only is because there's a different mechanism involved in that door
> lock system. That particular post triggers the 3 others. Pull it up and
> the other 3 go up automatically. Push it down and the other three
> automatically go down. The other 3 extend obviously somewhat higher than
> the driver side post even at maximum extension.
>
> The key unfailingly opens the door, and it's entirely mechanical.
> There's appears to be a direct linkage between the key turn and the post
> height.
>
> It's appearing more and more to me that I'll have to remove that panel.
> My Chilton's has some pictures but it's not specific to the 626,
> although it does include the 626 in the handful of vehicles it covers. I
> suppose I can manage to get the panel off. I'm not at all sure that I'll
> be able to determine the problem once I get in there, however.
>
> :
> :What does the module do? --It provides a pulse to the solenoids, and on
> some
> :systems reverses the polarity of the pulse to provide solenoid
> lock/unlock
> :direction.
>
> I'd assumed a reverse of polarity, but I gather based on your statement
> that there are other possible systems.
> :
> :When you have the door panel off, the first thing to look at is the
> :mechanism that connects the solenoid to the lock "button and the rest of
> the
> :lock linkage. Operate it by hand, and see if you can find any obvious
> roblems. The solenoid can have an internal bind that occurs when moving
> in
> ne direction, and not the other.
>
> Thanks.
> :
> oes the solenoid move as rapidly as the other door solenoids? (I doubt
> it!)
> Seems to, but it doesn't move as far, as noted.
>
> :Is anything binding the linkage?
> Won't know until I get in there.
>
> oes the solenoid move more rapidly during the lock mode?
> Not apparently, but it does go entirely to the bottom every time.
>
> oes the solenoid have two or three wires?
> Won't know until I get in there.
>
> Dan
>