Synthetic Mazda 3?

I just purchased a Mazda 3, it's a 2004 with 89k km on the clock. I
believe all previous oil changes were done with conventional, but I
know the characteristic differences between conventional and
synthetic, which makes me believe that in the long run synthetic is
the right choice. Quaker state makes decent synthetics, So I believe
(been using the advanced stuff for the past 3 oil changes in the
1.8t). Would the new Quaker State "horse power" 5w20 synthetic be
ideal for the Mazda 3? I'm not a ricer or anything putting octane
boosters in my 3 to gain performance, so I expect no performance
actually from this oil, just a good synthetic that wont sludge up as
much as conventional.

In article
<4eae49f3-7f1b-40dd-9cd2-(E-Mail Removed)>,
the_lower_class_brat <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

> Would the new Quaker State "horse power" 5w20 synthetic be
> ideal for the Mazda 3?

I would spend my money changing dino oil more frequently, say every 5k
miles or less...in fact, that's what I do with my own 3. At 143k on my
Miata, there's been no sludge problem changing dino oil every 3k-4k.

Synthetics are a good idea for boosted engines with high stress and heat
issues. I don't think they're justified otherwise.

--
Lanny Chambers
St. Louis, MO
'94C

Lanny Chambers wrote:
> In article
> <4eae49f3-7f1b-40dd-9cd2-(E-Mail Removed)>,
> the_lower_class_brat <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
>
>> Would the new Quaker State "horse power" 5w20 synthetic be
>> ideal for the Mazda 3?
>
> I would spend my money changing dino oil more frequently, say every 5k
> miles or less...in fact, that's what I do with my own 3. At 143k on my
> Miata, there's been no sludge problem changing dino oil every 3k-4k.
>
> Synthetics are a good idea for boosted engines with high stress and
> heat issues. I don't think they're justified otherwise.

I use synthetic, I change every 9k as advised by the handbook (I think our
conditions are far less dusty over here in the UK). I agree with what you
say about them in the last paragraph, but my oil has ester content which is
*supposed* to reduce engine wear during a cold startup. Apparantly this is
when most wear occurs?

R.

the_lower_class_brat wrote:
> I just purchased a Mazda 3, it's a 2004 with 89k km on the clock. I
> believe all previous oil changes were done with conventional, but I
> know the characteristic differences between conventional and
> synthetic, which makes me believe that in the long run synthetic is
> the right choice. Quaker state makes decent synthetics, So I believe
> (been using the advanced stuff for the past 3 oil changes in the
> 1.8t). Would the new Quaker State "horse power" 5w20 synthetic be
> ideal for the Mazda 3? I'm not a ricer or anything putting octane
> boosters in my 3 to gain performance, so I expect no performance
> actually from this oil, just a good synthetic that wont sludge up as
> much as conventional.

5W20 is unusually thin. Don't Mazda still recommend 5W30 or 10W30?

On Thu, 20 Dec 2007 15:23:24 +0000, Zog The Undeniable wrote:

> the_lower_class_brat wrote:
>> I just purchased a Mazda 3, it's a 2004 with 89k km on the clock. I
>> believe all previous oil changes were done with conventional, but I
>> know the characteristic differences between conventional and synthetic,
>> which makes me believe that in the long run synthetic is the right
>> choice. Quaker state makes decent synthetics, So I believe (been using
>> the advanced stuff for the past 3 oil changes in the 1.8t). Would the
>> new Quaker State "horse power" 5w20 synthetic be ideal for the Mazda
>> 3? I'm not a ricer or anything putting octane boosters in my 3 to gain
>> performance, so I expect no performance actually from this oil, just a
>> good synthetic that wont sludge up as much as conventional.
>
> 5W20 is unusually thin. Don't Mazda still recommend 5W30 or 10W30?


No, not even for the Miata.

Leon
--
Leon Bess Bozo .)

Leon van Dommelen wrote:
> On Thu, 20 Dec 2007 15:23:24 +0000, Zog The Undeniable wrote:
>
>> the_lower_class_brat wrote:
>>> I just purchased a Mazda 3, it's a 2004 with 89k km on the clock. I
>>> believe all previous oil changes were done with conventional, but I
>>> know the characteristic differences between conventional and
>>> synthetic, which makes me believe that in the long run synthetic is
>>> the right choice. Quaker state makes decent synthetics, So I
>>> believe (been using the advanced stuff for the past 3 oil changes
>>> in the 1.8t). Would the new Quaker State "horse power" 5w20
>>> synthetic be ideal for the Mazda 3? I'm not a ricer or anything
>>> putting octane boosters in my 3 to gain performance, so I expect no
>>> performance actually from this oil, just a good synthetic that
>>> wont sludge up as much as conventional.
>>
>> 5W20 is unusually thin. Don't Mazda still recommend 5W30 or 10W30?
>
>
> No, not even for the Miata.
>
> Leon

5W40 for me!

R.

On Fri, 21 Dec 2007 08:12:29 +0000, Richard Phillips wrote:

> Leon van Dommelen wrote:
>> On Thu, 20 Dec 2007 15:23:24 +0000, Zog The Undeniable wrote:
>>
>>> the_lower_class_brat wrote:
>>>> I just purchased a Mazda 3, it's a 2004 with 89k km on the clock. I
>>>> believe all previous oil changes were done with conventional, but I
>>>> know the characteristic differences between conventional and
>>>> synthetic, which makes me believe that in the long run synthetic is
>>>> the right choice. Quaker state makes decent synthetics, So I believe
>>>> (been using the advanced stuff for the past 3 oil changes in the
>>>> 1.8t). Would the new Quaker State "horse power" 5w20 synthetic be
>>>> ideal for the Mazda 3? I'm not a ricer or anything putting octane
>>>> boosters in my 3 to gain performance, so I expect no performance
>>>> actually from this oil, just a good synthetic that wont sludge up as
>>>> much as conventional.
>>>
>>> 5W20 is unusually thin. Don't Mazda still recommend 5W30 or 10W30?
>>
>>
>> No, not even for the Miata.
>>
>> Leon
>
> 5W40 for me!

I sure hope you have a *white* Miata.

Leon

> R.





--
Leon Bess Bozo .)

Richard Phillips wrote:

> 5W40 for me!

I use 0W40 (Mobil 1), not really for the viscosity but because it's the
only oil that stops my HLAs rattling - Castrol Edge 0W40 didn't work at
all, and nor did their Magnatec 5W30. Not a problem on newer Mazdas
with solid lifters, obviously.

You can put 0W40 in 99% of cars made - a notable exception being some
1990s Fords, which must use their specified 5W30 to prevent valves
sticking - although it won't give the very best fuel economy.