New problem with the Mazda...

OK...NOW, when I turn the wheel sharply, I get that nice KRUNKing noise
that tells me one of my CV joints is giving up...

It doesn't happen all the time, usually when cold and then alleviates as
the car gets warmer...but not always. Just KRUNKs less when the car has
been run for a bit.

Now, I'm betting I'll be able to take a look and see the boot torn.
Barring installing a new axle (I'm trying to save a few bucks until I get
a couple paychecks...) I'm going to try to repair the boot and grease the
CV joint. I realize this isn't the best thing, ad I sure as hell don't
want to get stuck in the middle of Lower East Cupcake at 3 in the morning,
esp after I saw my first bear today...

Any suggestions, if the boot isn't torn, on how to tell which axle it is?
I know the driver's side was replaced about 30,000 miles ago (just about
time for a REMAN to let go, BTW...) but I have no idea if the passenger's
side (the side I suspect, judging from the noise) has ever been done...

Hachiroku ãƒ�ãƒ�ãƒ*ク wrote:
> OK...NOW, when I turn the wheel sharply, I get that nice KRUNKing noise
> that tells me one of my CV joints is giving up...
>
> It doesn't happen all the time, usually when cold and then alleviates as
> the car gets warmer...but not always. Just KRUNKs less when the car has
> been run for a bit.
>
> Now, I'm betting I'll be able to take a look and see the boot torn.
> Barring installing a new axle (I'm trying to save a few bucks until I get
> a couple paychecks...) I'm going to try to repair the boot and grease the
> CV joint. I realize this isn't the best thing, ad I sure as hell don't
> want to get stuck in the middle of Lower East Cupcake at 3 in the morning,
> esp after I saw my first bear today...
>
> Any suggestions, if the boot isn't torn, on how to tell which axle it is?
> I know the driver's side was replaced about 30,000 miles ago (just about
> time for a REMAN to let go, BTW...) but I have no idea if the passenger's
> side (the side I suspect, judging from the noise) has ever been done...
>
>
Lift the front of the car and secure it safely Hachi, then turn each
side by hand and visually and tactilely inspect each side. Turn the
wheels full lock in each direction and rotate them. You should be able
to detect a bad half shaft easily. When you turn the wheels full lock
you can also spot cuts/tears in the boots that expose themselves when
the "accordion folds" of the boot are stretched. If you are just
repacking them make sure the grease is for CV joints. Valvoline makes a
pretty good synthetic type sold in one pound cans.

Hachiroku ãƒ�ãƒ�ãƒ*ク wrote:
> OK...NOW, when I turn the wheel sharply, I get that nice KRUNKing noise
> that tells me one of my CV joints is giving up...
>
> It doesn't happen all the time, usually when cold and then alleviates as
> the car gets warmer...but not always. Just KRUNKs less when the car has
> been run for a bit.
>
> Now, I'm betting I'll be able to take a look and see the boot torn.
> Barring installing a new axle (I'm trying to save a few bucks until I get
> a couple paychecks...) I'm going to try to repair the boot and grease the
> CV joint. I realize this isn't the best thing, ad I sure as hell don't
> want to get stuck in the middle of Lower East Cupcake at 3 in the morning,
> esp after I saw my first bear today...
>
> Any suggestions, if the boot isn't torn, on how to tell which axle it is?
> I know the driver's side was replaced about 30,000 miles ago (just about
> time for a REMAN to let go, BTW...) but I have no idea if the passenger's
> side (the side I suspect, judging from the noise) has ever been done...

This can also be a wheel bearing, though it does sound like a CV joint.

If the CV joint is gone, replacing the boot is like putting on a new
shoe of someone with a broken foot: It won't make a bit of difference.
And, unlike a broken foot, the CV joint won't get better by itself. So,
fixing the boot and replacing the grease won't do a bit of good.

I'd be afraid that once you got the boot off, the joint will just fall
apart.

The best thing to do might be to let it go for a week or two, work
overtime, and fix it the right way once.

Jeff